Boeri, I'm back

I seldom do the same hike twice, well except for the Boiling Lake which i have done seven (7) times and counting.

At the invitation of my friends, I ventured back to the Boeri Lake on Saturday July 02nd, 2011. I brought my niece along too, she loves hiking, snorkeling and wants to be a marine biologist.

I still enjoyed the hike, albeit I was drenched in rain from the minute I left the bus. Did I mention that we were in the rainforest of Dominica, that records almost 300 inches of rain on an annually. The Boeri lake, Dominica's highest lake at over 2800ft, is situated near the Morne Micotrin (Morne Macaque) and is a part of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, a World Heritage Site.

We were literally in the clouds and saw little in terms of view with the white mass all around us. The hike was very short, we did it in 30 minutes although all documentation indicates a hike of 45 minutes to an hour. It was easy except for the slippery stones, too many of them too, I think every one fell or missed falls.

Note to Forestry Division: the sign at the Boeri Lake needs to be changed...

Approaching the lake seems like a scene out of a scary movie. One of the hikers even mentioned that the lake looks like the one in the Jason's Friday the 13th movies... I had second thoughts about going in there but not the other hikers with a friend even thinking about swimming crossing the lake. He was alone in this adventure. I did soak my foot though... and I did take a dip in the Fresh Water Lake for 5 minutes, that water was just too damn cold.

All in all I can say that I did enjoy the hike but I won't go back for a third time, I pinky promise ;).

Lucky 7: HELL NO

Seven might be a lucky number to some but yesterday it was pure hell. I've been to the Boiling Lake six times, well seven now since i made the journey yesterday as NAYA organized a hike to the second largest lake of its kind in the world. I think the largest is found in New Zealand or so my 11 year old niece told me.

Well the lake is found in the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, which is also a recognized World Heritage Site by UNESCO. We set off from Roseau around 7:40 and took about one hour to get to the start of the trail (they really need to finish the road improvement works, it takes forever to get to Laudat). We started the hike at 8:42 after a quick group photo and prayer.

Everything was routine and just the way I remembered it from 5 years ago, the last time I hiked to the lake. Although alot had changed since the last time I saw it, it was even recorded to have dried up a few ago but not the Lake was back to its usual business, boiling up chalky water.

I stopped every other moment to take photos (one of my hobbies) and wait on the people behind me (a good way to catch your breath when you're tired). My mother and niece also made the trip so I had to make sure they were okay from time to time. Our first major stop was at Breakfast river, there I filled my bottle with the purest of water anywhere in the world. That water is sweet, no lie.

From there it was uphill. Again that was expected, but what I had forgot was how long it took from there to the viewpoint, which some people say is also the half way point between the start and the lake. It wasn't hard just long. Once we got there we took another pause for the cause and took photos, shared a few jokes and had some snacks pass around. No complaints or comments yet, but that was soon too come.

Everybody was all smiles through the Valley of Desolation and nobody took notice that we actually had to climb back up that steep incline. To be honest, I only went back to the lake to take a photo of my hand in the water, because i had lost the one I took out some time aback and I was glad to get the opportunity to do it but did i ever pay the price.

We arrived at the lake at about 11:30 and again had snacks, took photos and chit chatted. Nobody dared go down to the bottom (at the edge of the lake) but I made it there to get my photo, by any means necessary. The climb is always scary when you do it alone and I had my close moment when I second guessed my decision but I made it, else I wouldnt be here typing this blog.

We left a few minutes after, some people couldnt wait to go back when they realized how long the walk to the bus would really take. Off course, we had to take a dip in the hot pools before making our way through the Valley. If you are going to subject yourself to that painful climb you might at least enjoy the treats before you do so.

It felt like we were walking for day before we made it back to Titou Gorge, It actually just took me over 2 and a half hours. I felt bad for my niece though, she had cried on her way back to the Laudad and said she would never return there. I don't blame her, if I was at her age I probably would have said the same thing.

Oh before I end my blog, I want to say how proud I am of my mother for attempting the hike, at least she made it passed the Valley of Desolation, a lot of people haven't even made it that far before turning back.

Nest@

Next on my hiking list:

Morne Diablotin

Morne Trois Pitons

Perdu Temps (Lost Time)

Any takers??????

Hike no. 7: Middleham and Fond England Falls

Some time ago I heard about the Fond England Falls from a Peace Corps volunteer who was assisting the Cockrane community. I was surprised that there was a waterfall in the Roseau Valley that I hadn’t visited as yet and was determined to hike to it, just one problem there was no track/trail to the falls and any hike had to be as an expedition-type activity.

So turning on my radio on Wednesday I was excited to hear Ibrahim Brohim “The Sign Man” talking about the last hike of the 7 Wonders of Hiking in Dominica to the Middleham and Fond England Falls. The hike was being organized by Dwivayez Hiking Club and the National Reunion Committee 2008. I immediately rushed to their office, paid my 30 dollars and signed up without even checking my schedule for that Saturday, although I later found out that it was clear.

Saturday morning, bright and early, I made my way to the Financial Center to meet up with some 40 – 50 other hikers. We took the bus up to Providence, Laudat and assembled at the Middleham Falls Welcome Center. After a quick welcome, prayer and some hiking hints we were on our way around 7:00am. It was still kind of dark in the forest; the sun hadn’t come up yet on that part of the island.

I remember our guide saying that the first past of the hike was easy and the second part to Fond England was challenging to difficult, I took that to mean that it was difficult for the older hikers but I was to be pleasantly surprised.

I don’t really like to hike in prepared trails with the walkways all laid out with logs and ferns (fwigé). I prefer to walk and jump in the mud, if I can’t get dirty then I don’t feel like I’m taking a hike but just a walk or stroll. So for the first 45 minutes I was just running thru the trail and having fun taking pictures and drinking from the numerous streams along the way.

Did I mention that I am a competitive hiker? Even if no one is consciously competing with me I race through with every intention of making it first to the destination. Okay, I wasn't the first to reach Middleham falls, I was fifth but still in the first cluster of hikers. No one seemed to want to descend to the fresh pools of the falls until myself and my college classmate, now police officer, made our way down. Then all of a sudden every one was in the water swimming in the water. Did I mention that the water is as cold as ice? The sun rays hardly ever strike the water of the falls in the forest because of the leaf cover. I didn’t take a bath at Middleham, I was saving myself for Fond England falls and I would regret that choice.

After about 30 minutes of watching hikers swim across the pond at the base of the falls and taking photos of the picturesque scenery we gathered our bags and made our way back up the trail then made our way to the Tou Santi (Stinking Hole). It is another area of interest along the trail; a volcanic vent frequented by bats and the mixtures of the fumes and bat manure make for a very “undesirable” stink.

We continued along the trail, still to the front of the pack and almost passed the entrance of the Fond England Falls trail because it was only marked with ribbons. And now the true challenge began. We (pack of 6) made ourselves thru the dense forest search out pink and red ribbons to direct our path. Along the way, we had to grab unto young trees, descend a cliff holding unto knotted rope and even drag our butts in the mud, all worth it and exactly what I wanted in a hike.

By the time we made it down the mountain we were at a small river which came from the falls so from there it was upstream over rocks and through the water. Sweaty, muddy and now wet, just the way I like my hike, well the only thing missing was a good Dominican rain shower. I was the first to make it to Fond England and at first I was a little disappointed upon approaching the falls but then I touched the cold water, took a dip and felt all my pores open up under the crystal clear water and it was all worth it.

I had remarked one thing though during the hike, that although the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, World Heritage Site was renowned for its wildlife I had only heard the songs of a few birds (Siffleur Montagne) and seen one cyrique (crab). I wanted to cross paths with some snakes, agouti or manicou but I guess it was not to be today, well maybe the next time I visit the falls because this definitely isn’t my last hike there. I will definitely be back.

After about an hour at Fond England, we made our way back, first downstream, then back up the mountain, although easier it was more tiring to go up the muddy mountain side. My legs trembled up the hillside after a moment but I refused to stop because I didn’t want to lose momentum. But finally, I made it through the track to find a welcoming site, a white bus. It picked us up, by that time I was in a pack of four (4) persons and we descended Cockrane to the school where we feasted on rabbit water, fig and codfish, grilled plantains and sugar cane, all Dominican favourites. It was all worth it.

All in a day of hiking, all in my day.

Nest@